How to Photograph the Solar Eclipse: Complete Guide

Solar eclipses offer photographers a rare opportunity to capture one of nature's most spectacular events. When the moon passes between the Earth and the sun, creating minutes of awe-inspiring darkness, your camera can preserve the moment forever. 

With the right preparation and equipment, you can safely photograph this phenomenon and create impressive images to share.

Essential Safety Precautions for Eclipse Photography

Let's get one thing straight from the start: photographing a solar eclipse without proper protection can permanently damage both your eyes and your camera. This isn't something to take lightly.

Why Solar Filters Are Non-Negotiable

The sun's rays are powerful enough to fry your camera sensor and burn your retinas—even during an eclipse when much of the sun is covered. Standard UV filters, polarizers, or neutral density filters aren't enough protection. You need specialized solar filters.

Solar filters block over 99.99% of the sun's light, allowing only a safe amount to reach your sensor.

Choosing the Right Solar Filter

For photography, you'll need a proper solar filter that fits securely over the front of your lens. Look for filters that meet the ISO 12312-2 international safety standard. Brands like

Thousand Oaks Optical, Baader, and Lee Filters produce reliable options.

Glass filters provide the best optical quality but cost more. Metal-coated polymer filters are more affordable and work well for most photographers.

Make sure the filter fits snugly. Any light leaking around the edges defeats the purpose and creates dangerous conditions.

The Only Time to Remove Filters

If you're lucky enough to be in the path of totality, you can, and should, remove your solar filter ONLY during the brief period of total eclipse. This is when the moon completely covers the sun's bright surface, making it safe to view and photograph without filters.

Keep track of timing. Totality typically lasts from a few seconds to a maximum of about 7 minutes. Set alarms on your phone for 10 seconds before and after totality as a reminder to replace your filter.

Required Equipment for Eclipse Photography

You don't need the most expensive gear to capture amazing eclipse photos, but certain equipment will make a big difference.

Camera Options for Eclipse Photography

DSLRs and mirrorless cameras offer the most control and best results. Their interchangeable lenses and manual settings give you the flexibility to adapt to changing conditions.

Even entry-level models like the Canon Rebel series or Nikon D3500 can capture stunning eclipse photos when paired with the right lens and settings.

For best results, look for cameras with:

• Manual exposure controls

• Good high-ISO performance

• Electronic viewfinder (for mirrorless) or live view capability

If you're still getting familiar with using manual mode, this guide on how to use manual mode on DSLR can help you take full control of your camera.

Lens Selection for Different Eclipse Views

Your choice of focal length determines what aspect of the eclipse you'll capture:

Telephoto (300mm and longer): Fills the frame with the eclipsed sun, showing details of the sun's corona during totality. A 600mm lens makes the sun appear about the size of a nickel in your frame.

Mid-range zoom (70-300mm): Shows the sun as a smaller element but still clearly visible. Good for compositions that include some landscape elements.

Wide-angle (under 50mm): Captures the eclipse as part of a broader landscape, perfect for showing the darkened sky and environmental context. You can apply similar techniques from landscape photography to frame dramatic eclipse scenes.

Stability Solutions

Camera shake is the enemy of sharp eclipse photos, especially with telephoto lenses. A sturdy tripod is absolutely essential. Look for one that can handle the weight of your camera and longest lens.

A remote shutter release or intervalometer eliminates vibrations from pressing the shutter button. If you don't have one, use your camera's self-timer function.

Don't Forget These Extras

• Extra batteries: Cold temperatures and extended shooting drain batteries faster

• Multiple memory cards: The last thing you want is to run out of storage

• Weather protection: A simple plastic bag can save your gear in unexpected rain

• Flashlight: Useful when adjusting gear in the darkness of totality

• Chair and water: Eclipse watching is a waiting game; stay comfortable

How to Photograph the Eclipse with a Smartphone

Can a smartphone really capture decent eclipse photos? Absolutely! While you won't get the details of a DSLR with a telephoto lens, today's smartphone cameras can capture surprisingly good eclipse images.

Solar Filters for Smartphones

Just like professional cameras, your phone needs protection. Several companies make solar filters specifically designed for smartphones, including Celestron and Daystar.

Alternatively, you can hold a pair of certified eclipse glasses in front of your phone's lens. It's not elegant, but it works in a pinch.

Never attempt to photograph the sun without a proper filter just because your phone's lens is small. The intense light can still damage your phone's sensor.

Apps That Enhance Phone Eclipse Photography

Several apps give you more control over your smartphone camera:

• ProCam (iOS) or Camera FV-5 (Android) for manual exposure control

• NightCap (iOS) or Camera Zoom FX (Android) for enhanced low-light performance

• Sun Surveyor or PhotoPills to plan your shot based on the sun's position

Best Settings for Smartphone Eclipse Photography

Most smartphones automatically adjust exposure, which doesn't work well for eclipses. Use these manual settings if your phone allows:

• Disable flash

• Lower exposure compensation (-1 to -2 EV)

• Set ISO to 100-200

• Lock focus on infinity

• Use your phone's timer to avoid shake

Understanding how burst mode works can help capture multiple eclipse phases in quick succession.

Boost Your Phone's Eclipse Photography Potential

Clip-on telephoto lenses for smartphones can get you closer to the action. Options from Moment, Olloclip, or even budget alternatives from Amazon can dramatically improve your phone's reach.

A small tripod with a smartphone adapter provides essential stability. Models from Joby, Manfrotto, and UBeesize offer good options at various price points.

Planning Your Eclipse Photography Session

Success in eclipse photography happens long before the big day. Planning is everything.

Finding the Perfect Location

The path of totality, where the moon completely covers the sun, is relatively narrow. Being just a few miles outside this path means you'll only see a partial eclipse.

Websites like NASA's eclipse page, TimeAndDate.com, and Eclipse2024.org provide detailed maps of the eclipse path. Check these resources to find locations within the path of totality.

Consider these factors when choosing your spot:

• Weather patterns (historical cloud cover data)

• Accessibility and parking

• Crowd expectations

• Interesting foreground elements for composition

Think about how your composition contributes to the significance of the shot, especially during rare celestial moments.

Weather Planning Strategies

Clear skies are crucial for eclipse photography. Start checking weather forecasts about a week before the event, but be prepared to make last-minute location changes.

Cloud cover forecasts from NOAA or apps like Clear Outside provide detailed predictions. Have 2-3 backup locations ready along the path of totality, ideally separated by enough distance to offer different weather conditions.

Eclipse Timing Resources

Download an eclipse app that provides precise timing for your exact location. Eclipse Timer by Gordon Telepun or Solar Eclipse Timer by Dr. Xavier Jubier are excellent options.

These apps provide custom alerts for:

• First contact (beginning of partial eclipse)

• Second contact (start of totality)

• Third contact (end of totality)

• Fourth contact (end of partial eclipse)

Know these times cold. During the excitement, it's easy to miss critical moments.

Camera Settings for Different Eclipse Phases

The perfect settings change as the eclipse progresses through its phases. Let's break it down.

Partial Eclipse Photography

During the partial phases, you'll need your solar filter attached. Use these settings as a starting point:

• Mode: Manual

• Aperture: f/8 to f/11

• Shutter speed: 1/125 to 1/500 sec (adjust as needed)

• ISO: 100 or 200

• White balance: Daylight

• Focus: Manual, set to infinity

Take test shots and adjust. The ideal exposure varies based on your specific filter, so start early in the partial phase to dial in your settings.

Capturing the Diamond Ring Effect

The diamond ring, that brilliant flash of sunlight just before and after totality, is one of the most challenging and rewarding phases to capture.

• Keep your solar filter on until just before totality

• Quickly switch to these settings just as totality begins:

  • Aperture: f/8

  • Shutter speed: 1/1000 to 1/2000 sec

  • ISO: 400

The diamond ring lasts only seconds, so be ready. Many photographers set up bracketing to ensure they get the shot.

Totality: The Main Event

During totality, remove your solar filter to capture the sun's corona. This ethereal outer atmosphere is only visible during total eclipses.

Corona brightness varies with distance from the sun's edge, so one exposure won't capture all the details. Try these settings:

• Mode: Manual

• Aperture: f/5.6 to f/8

• Shutter speed: Bracket from 1/1000 sec to 2 seconds

• ISO: 400-800

• Focus: Maintain focus at infinity

Focus Tips for Tack-Sharp Eclipse Images

Autofocus often struggles during eclipses, especially during totality. Set your focus manually:

1. Use live view with maximum magnification

2. Focus on the edge of the moon against the sun during partial phases

3. Once sharp, tape down your focus ring to prevent accidental adjustments

4. Take test shots and zoom in to check the sharpness

Pre-focus well before the eclipse reaches totality. During the excitement and darkness, it becomes much harder to achieve perfect focus.

Step-by-Step Guide for Eclipse Day

When the big day arrives, follow this timeline for the best results.

Equipment Setup Timeline

2 hours before first contact: Arrive at your location and set up your tripod on stable ground. Mount your camera with the solar filter securely attached. Take this time to test all equipment, including your remote trigger and extra batteries, ensuring everything functions properly before the eclipse begins.

1 hour before first contact: Take test shots of the uneclipsed sun to confirm your exposure settings are correct. Double-check your timeline and set any necessary alarms to remind you of key phases. Review your shot list and settings for each phase of the eclipse to ensure you're fully prepared.

Pre-Eclipse Test Shots

Take several test exposures of the regular sun with your solar filter attached, aiming for an image where you can see the sun's disk clearly without being too bright or too dark. Check your composition and make adjustments, leaving extra space around the sun to accommodate the corona that will be visible during totality.

The Shot Sequence

During partial phases: Take photos every 5-10 minutes to document the progress of the eclipse, periodically checking focus and exposure. About 15 minutes before totality, increase your frequency to taking photos every minute to capture the accelerating changes.

Just before totality: Prepare for filter removal by loosening it slightly for quick access. Set up exposure bracketing if your camera supports it and check that your memory card has plenty of space for the upcoming sequence of shots during the critical totality phase.

During totality: Remove your solar filter (a critical safety step as it's now safe to view directly) and execute your bracketing sequence. Take wide shots showing the darkened landscape and, if time permits, change compositions to capture different perspectives of this rare phenomenon.

After totality: Replace your solar filter immediately as the sun begins to emerge. Return to your partial eclipse settings and continue documenting the partial phases as the eclipse ends and normal daylight returns.

Quick Troubleshooting Guide

Problem: Images too bright or dark Solution: Adjust shutter speed in 1-stop increments

Problem: Cannot achieve focus Solution: Switch to live view, zoom in digitally, and focus manually on the edge of the sun

Problem: Condensation on lens Solution: Use a lens warming strap or keep a microfiber cloth handy

Creative Composition Tips for Eclipse Photos

While technical settings are important, composition transforms a good eclipse photo into a great one.

Foreground Elements That Tell a Story

Including landscape elements or people watching the eclipse adds scale and context to your photos. 

Try positioning yourself where you can include mountain silhouettes, interesting trees or rock formations, architecture that complements the sky, or observers wearing eclipse glasses during partial phases. 

Plan these shots in advance using apps like PhotoPills that show the sun's exact position at your location throughout the event.

Wide-Angle Creative Approaches

A wide-angle lens captures the entire experience, the darkened sky, the eerie landscape lighting, and the eclipsed sun.

Try a panorama sequence spanning from east to west to show the progression of darkness across the landscape.

Consider a time-lapse setup with a second camera to capture the changing light. Set it to take a photo every 30 seconds throughout the eclipse.

Multiple Exposure Planning

Create a composite showing the eclipse progression by taking photos at regular intervals from the same tripod position. 

To execute this well, lock your tripod position, use identical framing for each shot, and take photos at consistent intervals (every 10 minutes works well). 

These images can be combined in post-processing to show the sun's path across the sky, producing those iconic eclipse sequence photos seen in astronomy magazines.

A polished composite can become a highlight in your photography portfolio.

Post-Processing Tips for Eclipse Photos

Even perfect in-camera technique benefits from thoughtful editing. Here's how to make your eclipse photos shine.

Enhancing Corona Details

The corona has an incredible dynamic range that's difficult to capture in a single exposure. Try these techniques:

For HDR merging, import your bracketed exposures and use HDR merging in Lightroom or specialized software like Aurora HDR, carefully blending to maintain natural appearance while showing corona detail. 

Apply radial gradient adjustments in Lightroom or Photoshop to enhance different parts of the corona independently, allowing you to bring out the intricate structures of this rarely seen solar feature.

Creating Composite Eclipse Sequence Images

To create a composite showing multiple phases:

1. Open your base image (usually a wider shot of the landscape)

2. Stack additional eclipse phase images as layers

3. Align each layer precisely

4. Mask to reveal only the sun from each phase

5. Adjust opacity as needed for natural blending

Software like StarStaX simplifies this process for beginners.

Color Correction for Authentic Results

The corona appears pearly white to silvery blue to the naked eye. Avoid overly yellow or orange processing.

Use the white balance eyedropper tool on stars visible during totality to set accurate color temperature.

For partial phases through a solar filter, colors often have a yellow, orange, or blue cast depending on your filter type. This is normal and can be adjusted subtly in post-processing for a more natural appearance.

Common Mistakes to Avoid in Eclipse Photography

Learn from others' failures to ensure your success.

Filter Safety Failures

Forgetting to replace your solar filter after totality is dangerous for both your eyes and equipment. Set multiple alarms or have a buddy remind you.

Never use homemade filters or sunglasses. Only certified solar filters provide adequate protection.

Double-check that your filter is properly secured. A filter that falls off during observation can result in instant equipment damage.

Focus Problems and Solutions

Many photographers find their totality images are blurry because:

• Focus was lost when removing the solar filter

• Camera hunted for focus in the darkness

• Excitement caused them to accidentally bump the focus ring

Solution: Pre-focus, then tape down your focus ring. Take test shots and zoom in to verify sharpness before the critical moments.

Memory and Battery Failures

Nothing is worse than your camera dying during totality. Bring at least three times the battery power you think you'll need.

Format memory cards before the event and bring spares. Some photographers swap to fresh cards right before totality to eliminate any risk of card errors.

Don't Forget to Actually Experience the Eclipse

The most common regret among eclipse photographers? Being so focused on equipment that they missed experiencing the event.

Take a moment during totality to look up from your viewfinder and take in the spectacle with your own eyes. The camera can capture the image, but your memory captures the feeling.

Set up your bracketing sequence to run automatically so you can spend at least 30 seconds of totality simply looking up in wonder.

Conclusion

Photographing a solar eclipse combines technical skills, careful planning, and a bit of luck. With proper preparation and safety precautions, you can capture this magnificent celestial event while still enjoying the experience.

If you're proud of your eclipse shots and want to share them with a wider audience, consider entering a photography contest for beginners. It's a great way to gain exposure and win prizes.